Here are the best new restaurants of 2019 in each city across the US. December 1, 2020 But with rising star Ashleigh Shanti working side by side in the kitchen with Asheville luminary John Fleer, the history lesson happens to be delicious. 9:28 a.m. Yeah, I’m going to need a slice of the lemon-pistachio loaf cake, a piece of the chocolate banana bread, and one of every cookie (espresso shortbread, chocolate-hazelnut, oaty Anzac) to go. But try as you might to remain skeptical, there’s no denying the righteousness of that slow-smoked beef rib when chef Doug Adams slips on the black rubber gloves and starts carving you a slab. Denver’s Best Restaurants. I returned early the next morning: They weren’t out of the oven yet. Please don’t hate me. Best Dining in New Orleans, Louisiana: See 426,766 Tripadvisor traveler reviews of 1,873 New Orleans restaurants and search by cuisine, price, location, and more. Egg yolk ravioli with ham, peas, and brown butter, The restaurant’s ever-changing chalkboard menu, Roast chicken with fried potatoes and mojo rojo. Save Pin FB. In 2019, the most wildly creative restaurants to open in years took their respective cities by storm, beloved old-timers continued to rack up new legions of fans and health-conscious diners were provided with more options than ever before. We’ve done the legwork. Muffins and Lemon-Pistachio Loaf in the pastry case. Grand Tavern by David Burke Celebrity chef David Burke brings to St. Louis a sampling of his time-tested classics, such as clothesline bacon, lobster steak, and a 34-ounce salt–aged porterhouse (pictured). And the generous big-meat family-style entrées. "The most iconic dish Indians make at home," says Surti: We've adapted these addictive ribs so you can make them at home with excellent results. Design firm ASH NYC modeled these barstools after a midcentury stool from Italian furniture maker Bonacina. Come by in the morning and score a pain au chocolat that makes you moan. —J.K. We’re aware that Kwame Onwuachi’s Kith/Kin opened about two years ago, but we’re stretching the boundaries of “newness” here because it would be a travesty not to raise a toast to the audacity and originality of his cooking down by the Wharf. Unfettered joy radiates from inside Seven Reasons as you stand outside the front door, and once you enter and sit down, that joy makes itself known—proudly, defiantly—in the riot of flavors and hues that chef Enrique Limardo sends out from the kitchen. Julia Spalding & IM Editors. You may be able to find more information about this and similar content at piano.io, Esquire's Best New Restaurants in America, 2020, The New York Dinners We Thought We’d Have Again, Masterpiece Pies and the Mission Behind Them, It's Not Just the Food I Miss at Restaurants, Chef Michael Lomonaco Knows How to Start Over. So in my attempt to understand what exactly the chef and owner Donny Sirisavath was trying to do, it was easiest just to order them all. This is a rare thing to find, and I felt lucky just to be there. By now, she has utterly recharged a restaurant that had vanished from the conversation. Seven Reasons at 2208 Fourteenth Street NW, As I held an oyster to my nose, I noticed something. They hand-cut a tartare that practically glistens, the steak tossed in colatura (anchovy sauce) and served with roughed-up golden hunks of potato that made me question how I ever could’ve enjoyed steak tartare any other way. 24 New Restaurants and Pop-Ups to Try Around Boston. If only everything about it, from the croissants to, yes, the hand soap, weren’t so perfect. THE MOVE: Grab one of everything from the pastry case to go—and a loaf of bread too. The toothy mafaldine I had one night—made from local grains milled in-house and tangled up with morsels of grassy whey-braised Colorado lamb and tender little peas—was the single most exciting plate of pasta I ate this year. Which is exactly where you want to be. And the egg salad one made Instagram-famous by its orange-yellow yolk half-moons. Is there almost too much packed into each bite? Chef-owner Jessica Hicks decorates the Lemon-Pistachio Loaf. STREET-STYLE TACOS: Get 'em at Dos Rocas. THE MOVE: Book a room at the Hotel Peter & Paul; pretend you live here. Chef Adam Evans, a product of Muscle Shoals, is paying homage to a specifically southern tradition of seafood cookery, and he’s doing it in a spacious, wide-windowed room that feels like a boat club where nobody’s a snob. There is so much to love about the Front Range dining scene these days. Seven-month-old Yuka Hughes scrutinizes the offerings. Kwame Onwuachi—who came back from early failure to score big with his cooking at Kith/Kin and the publication of his essential memoir, Notes from a Young Black Chef—has become a leader in an ongoing conversation about where we’ve come from and where we’re headed. Turns out, you can have all that, with a flawless caviar-topped omelet too. Ten minutes north of the White House and its sour, divisive rhetoric, immigrants are throwing a party. This cozy Italian restaurant, run by the chef power … How she sought asylum in the U.S. a decade ago as an openly gay woman. It’s fusion with a heart—and without any bitter colonialist aftertaste. 8:46 a.m. The person to blame for this is Matt Vicedomini. Our readers pick the best. The entire menu at Virtue is like a spread at a family reunion piled high with dishes that inspire such love. THE SETUP: Breakfast-and-lunch food trailer with picnic tables, THE ORDER: Sliced brisket taco, migas breakfast taco, chips and queso. At least the memories will last forever. The pair built Le Comptoir as an homage to a neighborhood restaurant in Lyon of the same name, which Mester liked so much that he convinced the chef to let him spend a night in the kitchen. After one slurp of painstakingly handmade noodles in a savory, complex pork blood broth, the restaurant’s roots came through clearly: This is the cooking of Laos, the country the chef’s mother fled after its civil war before resettling in Texas in 1977. There are two things in this package that are going to upset a lot of people in Texas. The bran leftover from milling grains into flour is used to make fermented pickles, like this Napa cabbage seasoned with Calabrian chiles and dried anchovies. But if there’s any place in the country that’s making this quintessential genre feel fresh and new and fun and youthful, it’s Baltimore’s Le Comptoir du Vin. I’ve thought about what it was that compelled me to go back the next day, this time to the take-out window, for another omelet sandwich, sliced in three segments and set in a little white box of just the right size. Birmingham, AL. Occasionally dim sum can be a bit of a bait-and-switch: divine in the abstract, disappointing in execution, at least in the United States. Don’t get me wrong, I am extremely into the fact that I can start my meal with a hot puffy disk of chef Kelly Whitaker’s heirloom-grain piada bread straight from the restaurant’s wood-fired oven. Antonio Bachour, raised in Puerto Rico, has become an Instagram star because of his jewel-like, wildly creative sweets, but at his new full-service restaurant in the Miami area, we also get to see how a virtuoso baker can work miracles with a Cuban sandwich and an avocado toast. What about a restaurant? A musk was hiding in the mignonette. Yet there is none of the “staged-at-Noma-once” ego trip that has mucked up many similarly ambitious projects. Every product was carefully curated by an Esquire editor. —A.S. Andrew Zimmern on COVID-19 and Broken Food Systems. Limardo and several members of his team come from Venezuela, a country in the midst of collapse, and yet the Latin American food and cocktails at Seven Reasons—a mountain of black rice topped with prawns and pork cheeks, a salad in which the summery tang of tomatoes has been concentrated into cubes of jelly, a platter of hamachi tiradito whose pink and green splashes of salmon roe and jalapeño could hang in an art gallery—serve up jubilation as a remedy for pain and color as a cure for the blues. THE SETUP: Snack-size Laotian at high-top communal tables, day and night, THE ORDER: Boat noodles, khao soi, moutsayhang (spiced pork-and-rice bites), shrimp bites. Together they transformed the 1860s Catholic church and schoolhouse into 71 hotel rooms unlike any other—plus magical open-to-the-public spaces like this very bar. Velvety mac and cheese. To make the crispy-crunchy topper for her nasi lemak, Pang fries small dried anchovies until crisp and tosses them with toasty peanuts and sambal. Course 1: Snacks at Longoven mean a tiny nasturtium-covered carrot-mole tart, a fried squid ink “churro,” and nori crackers with smoked mackerel. The place is a counter with only eight stools, but chef Cagla Onal, who grew up in Turkey, seems to treat each salad and dip and Mediterranean sandwich and roasted vegetable with the sort of loving care you’d expect from l’Arpège in Paris. Then roll a few frames at Highland Park Bowl so that you can work up an appetite for a second go. Toto, we’re not in a food court anymore: Pay attention to the way the foie gras segues into the rice in the kimbap; tune in to that sustained power chord of heat hovering behind the raw fish in the hwedupbap. This is very beautiful and very serious food served in a very beautiful and very serious space. Chewy sourdough, baked in-house and drenched obscenely in olive oil, begs for a schmear of chicken livers tickled with Madeira. To dine at Tailor is to be his guest, fully and completely. Best New Restaurants It’s the Year of the Indie: These 15 spots, all but one of which are independently owned, show off Chicago’s culinary scene at its charming, idiosyncratic best. The pleasure of Matt’s BBQ Tacos is pure and simple: When I think about where I was the happiest on the road this year, my mind immediately goes to sitting in the sunshine (yes, in the Pacific Northwest!) The sauce was “scented with fragrance from mangda water beetle.” Pim Techamuanvivit’s menu at Nari (executed nightly by chef de cuisine Meghan Clark) overflows with lovely surprises like that. Asheville, NC. So Do Black-Owned Businesses. But every now and then a pasta emporium comes along (last year it was Misi in New York, and in 2017 it was Felix Trattoria in southern California) whose handiwork with flour, water, and salt turns me into a quivering mess of pleasure. Showing off the interior for maximum photogenic-ness. Well, spoiler alert: The brick-and-mortar Longoven, which finally opened last year, is mind-bogglingly good—each dish so technically precise, so truly dedicated to ingredients, not to mention so, so pretty. Seven Reasons at 2208 Fourteenth Street NW, Esquire's Best Restaurants in America, 2018, Esquire's Best New Restaurants in America 2015, The Best New Restaurants in America, 2013. This story begins with hand soap. This is a collection of the best new restaurants that opened in St. Louis this year. —A.S. —J.K. Konbi uses Miyako brand. The counter-service restaurant features a 20-seat dining room but is currently open for takeout. Esquire participates in various affiliate marketing programs, which means we may get paid commissions on editorially chosen products purchased through our links to retailer sites. And also the carrots with weirdly good dip that turned out to be blitzed shishitos and pistachios. How her cooking connects her back to her family. This experience should have made me resent Konbi, a place that actually prompted me to describe the process of buying a pastry as Kafkaesque. Surti’s storytelling suffuses the space and the food served within it with so much vulnerability and personality and love that you could not possibly be anywhere but “our home,” as he refers to the restaurant. Its sheer popularity should make it a maddening place (and a maddening choice for best new restaurant). Born outside of Nashville to parents who emigrated from Gujarat in western India, he gives of his heritage when he explains to 30-odd mostly white diners that the fragrant amber-tinged diamond under a layer of toasted coconut and sesame seeds is called dhokla, a common breakfast halfway around the world. (It’s not even on Amazon!) Or maybe I’ll just never leave. Bullard at 813 Southwest Alder Street, Wayan is like a round of love texts that ping back and forth between Cédric Vongerichten (son of French-born global gastro-deity Jean-Georges) and his wife, Ochi, who grew up in Indonesia. At both restaurants you’ll have fun, and I’m guessing you weren’t expecting that. THE MOVE: Book a seat at the bar counter for the best view of the action. THE MOVE: You want the (deliciously lard-y) flour tortillas. A restaurant’s generosity can take many forms. I later emailed Onal about the braised artichoke, and she sent me a delicate, multistep recipe involving olives, lemon peel, parsley, mint, and sweet onion. Restaurants Italian West Village. This winter Vicedomini followed that up with not one but two new spots, both of which show off his legendary brisket, simply seasoned but expertly smoked, low and slow, over oak for 10-to-12 hours. Leftover lard from his restaurant Eem. Course 2: The staff loved the Meyer lemon kombucha at family meal so much that Manning made it into the base of this refreshing scallop crudo. I’m getting lost in the idea that I could live in Detroit and this could be my coffee shop and I could eat this Danish every morning when…. Shrimp blanketed in rémoulade on a crunchy bed of fried green tomatoes. Best restaurants in Arkansas 2019. No one’s complaining. But you’re not incorrect to detect a Vongerichtenish touch (bold flavor being something of a family heirloom) in the way the mango plays with the mint. I showed up at 11 a.m.: sold out. Albena, Detroit. It’s worth the trip. THE ORDER: That’s up to Surti and the seasons. Course 3: Manning emulsifies foie gras with cream and gelatin until airy, then tops it with hazelnuts, grapefruit, and a snow cap of carbonated ginger ale. And yet: They turn out the silkiest chicken liver pâté. Noma Reopened With Burgers Served at Picnic Tables. Whitaker installed the wood-fired oven specifically for baking his signature piada, a fluffy, hot, pita-like disk of bread made with heirloom grains. (Let’s just say it involves a stint in Alba, Italy, and many arduous hours in the catering world.) Vicedomini’s got a thing for trailers—they remind him of Texan barbecue titans (Franklin Barbecue, La Barbecue) but feel distinctly Portland, with all its food carts. Piada bread served with farmer's cheese, edamame purée, garden herbs, and benne. Oh, and BYOB! 2019 | Nolita. And the Japanese highballs made with ice so crazy-clear I could see through the cubes halfway across the room (and nearly spilled half my drink trying to do so). Wayan at 20 Spring Street, It's the team-up of the year: Chef Kwame Onwuachi of Kith/Kin in Washington, D.C. and Chef Cédric Vongerichten of Wayan in New York are cooking up something good to help us celebrate 38 years of Best New Restaurants. And that’s a rare kind of generosity indeed. Hutong's magnificent, meticulously crafted bites—via chef Fei Wang—are what dumpling dreams are made of. Restaurants Thai Nolita. We’re rooting for her. Eem. I’ve thought about my next visit to L.A., when I vowed not to leave without one of Konbi’s coveted croissants, of which only 36 are made daily. Max Leonard’s housemade bread comes served with Smoky Carrot Dip, Beet and Hazelnut Dip, and Hummus With Pistachio Dukkah. Guests can choose between a lively bar area and a more formal and sedate dining room. And finally I learned her story: how her cooking is influenced by her background as Baba-Nyonya (sometimes called Nyonya or Peranakan), the descendants of Chinese settlers in Malaysia. By Stacey Leasca. The key to the perfectly chewy flour tortillas at Matt’s BBQ Tacos? Small dishes help create a Lao street food experience. THE PLAYERS: Managing partner Joaquin Rodas, chef Alex Harrell, general manager Lisa Nguyen, THE SETUP: 19th-century-church becomes old-world hotel bar, THE ORDER: Duck egg omelet with caviar and any spritz you feel like. As if cooking for a roomful of strangers weren’t enough, any restaurant that opens in this climate of social-media oversharing has to do so at its most flattering angles, too. Their restaurant is housed in a nondescript building in a rapidly developing neighborhood clamoring more for taprooms and barbecue joints and taprooms-slash-barbecue joints than for an austere-looking tasting-menu spot. —J.K. He eventually settled in Portland and opened a trailer—Matt’s BBQ—in the parking lot of a pawnshop. I’ve thought about that first visit, when I watched in awe, but also a certain amount of disbelief, as a bulked-out guy in a short-sleeve white button-down meditatively attended to the same two square-shaped pans of eggs for my entire visit. And a crispy pork katsu one. And when Kopitiam’s chef, Kyo Pang (pictured above, right), partnered with Moonlynn Tsai (formerly of the Taiwanese spot Pine & Crane in L.A.) to relocate and expand Kopitiam down the block, I immediately loved this location even more. Joy at 5100 York Boulevard, All it said on the menu was “braised artichoke.” (Having grown up in California, I feel a kinship with artichokes, but it’s pretty easy to mess them up. Virtue at 1462 East Fifty-Third Street, Once so fresh, the omakase/kaiseki game in America can sometimes feel bedeviled by performative stiffness, lunatic prices, and high-decibel customers with a lot of money and no class. They all come piled with scrambled eggs and potatoes and salsa onto unbelievably puffy flour tortillas made with rendered lard. Not a good feeling. Get the recipe: Miso Pork Ribs with Chile-Honey Glaze. Wanna try Kopitiam's food? The muffin selection changes with the seasons: These are Apple-Honey-Pecan. 8:58 a.m. Can we talk about this bread? Including: twenty-two restaurants, one pop-up, and a big comeback. Subscribe Now, This content is created and maintained by a third party, and imported onto this page to help users provide their email addresses. I think we can all agree that the Wolf’s Tailor really needs to chill out. Designed to resemble a tree trunk, the bar’s back wall was crafted by Kern Studios, which also carves the Styrofoam figures on Mardi Gras floats. Alta Adams. It’s a hang. From a gastropub in Newton to a ramen shop in Chinatown, from a BYOB private dinner party in Brookline to a Cambridge bakery by way of Iran, these are some of the most interesting new restaurants and pop-ups to debut in the most difficult year the restaurant industry has seen THE PLAYERS: Chef-owners Andrew Manning, Megan Fitzroy Phelan, and Patrick Phelan, THE SETUP: Tweezer food you actually want to eat. But Khao Noodle Shop is not a restaurant that looks only to the past. Alta Adams at 5359 West Adams Boulevard, If you have grown weary of “gastronomy” and its countless pretenses, this chill, female-fronted hangout might be your end-of-the-decade antidote. The Chocolate-Hazelnut Cookies are too small to share (at least that’s what we told ourselves). Like the Lyonnaise original, the scrappiness of the Le Comptoir operation is its charm. Come back in the a.m.—there is no better breakfast than trout and grits. How she hasn’t seen her parents in 11 years. I piled into the place with a bunch of friends and children, and the group devoured the fried Calabash crab claws with Old Bay aioli with such gluttonous alacrity that we had to ask for a second order, and then a third. Eventually they reconnected and decided to move to Richmond, where they launched Longoven pop-ups in 2014. It’s about having a place where you feel immediately welcomed. Restaurant obsessives want to know what’s new, what’s hot, and which favorite chef just launched a sophomore effort. Get tickets to the Hot 10 party. Nine months ago I made a mental note of the tall teal bottle in a restaurant bathroom in Los Angeles. Automatic Seafood and Oysters. THE PLAYERS: Chef/managing partner Vivek Surti, THE SETUP: Gujarat meets the American South via a set menu. The tasting menu option comes with a bowl of this cozy, congee-like porridge. The second is Matt’s BBQ Tacos, which opens at 8 a.m., with that brisket and pork belly burnt ends and more smoked meats. Nari integrates California produce into traditional recipes that Thai women have passed along for generations, like gaeng gradang (fried nuggets of northern Thai headcheese) and kapi plah (a funky spread of smashed prawns and shrimp paste). Outside of lunch hours, Ochre is open all day for espresso and pastries. Los Angeles, CA. Server Solomon Gaut grabs a slice of layer cake for a very lucky (and smart) customer. The result: dishes—like a tamal stuffed with goat barbacoa, and a thin, crispy milanesa made with quail and paired with a red mole—that taste totally new without being vain about it. The 2019 World’s 50 Best Restaurants List. Fact: Breakfast tacos just taste better outside. The egg yolk dipping sauce served with the chicken meatball skewers is topped with a zesty house-made yuzu kosho and dehydrated chives. There are approximately 12 dishes on the menu at Khao Noodle Shop, each only a few bites or spoonfuls, and none costs more than $8. Cutlets get a drizzle of tonkatsu sauce, then mustard. Kaya butter toast, with a thick layer of pandan leaf and coconut jam sandwiched between two golden slices of fluffy bread, is a must-order. Drop in as the sun goes down and kiss a crudité martini (somehow it involves the essence of cucumbers and snap peas, and there’s a cute carrot balancing on the rim) while you opt for a second helping of the blue prawns with the crispy, salty heads or the ethereal micro-tart that pairs a cloud of uni custard with a quenelle of caviar. But even if you simply dine with the regular crowd, chef Joe Beddia’s geeked-out approach to cheese-and-crust mastery (a recent summer pie involved New Jersey peaches and a garlic-thyme cream), on-the-nose appetizers like a bowl of Judion beans bathing in olive oil, and a gently curveballing wine list mean that you will only fail to enjoy your dinner if you happen to be dead inside. On weekends there were rounds of new specials: fragrant assam (tamarind) curry; slow-cooked beef rendang. Red Hook Tavern at 329 Van Brunt Street, Here’s the plan. First of all, it’s a full-on restaurant, from chef Alex Harrell and the team behind the beloved NOLA hangout Bacchanal. Shoot us a message on the tip line. I had a feeling about the Hotel Peter & Paul. We've adapted these addictive ribs so you can make them at home with excellent results. Dig in! Park’s Wagyu ragù—with long semi-scissored rice cakes flooded with a sweet, meaty Bolognese—might be my favorite dish of 2019. Behind it all is the earnestness and maturity of three people who have worked harder than I can imagine to get to this place and who take none of their (unlikely) success for granted. You want to, though. The chocolate croissant worth planning your entire morning around. Just a little? Where should you eat tonight? And, and, and. Posted Dec. 13, 2019 & filed under Food and Drink . —J.K. (See a very special episode of Billions.) Surti seasons boiled peanuts with chile and coriander, which “is very Indian” but reminds him of Cajun-spiced ones from gas stations in the South. That neighborhood (Scott’s Addition) is in a city (Richmond) that’s only very recently begun to draw attention as a dining destination. Here are 12 of the best this month. Moist cornbread cradling a pat of butter the size of a bar of soap. What’s to hate about that? Whisking water into the eggs makes sure the panko coating isn’t too thick. This 18-Foot BBQ Smoker Was Stolen. Top 10 New Restaurants for 2019...and the results of our annual Readers' Restaurant Poll. Instead, there’s a refreshing graciousness and hospitality—a sense that everyone is actually happy you’re here. Oh, right. Wet khao soy with rice noodles, mushrooms, and fermented pork. Then, because I was confident that this soap would improve my life, I ordered it on the flight home. Enough is enough! And while the Eater 38 is a crucial resource covering top destinations and neighborhood essentials across the city, it is not a chronicle of the ‘it’ places of the moment and the most promising new openings. So not only does this place turn out pastries and coffee and savory food at the highest level, but there’s also a high-key bread program? A place where you just wanna hang out, as golden hour fades, hoping the night never ends. Or that he brought on the Michelin-starred pastry chef Jeb Breakell to whip up as-fascinating-as-they-are-lovable desserts? 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